Sunday, January 16, 2011

Erawan Shrine


Fondly known as Phra Phrom the Erawan (Brahma) Shrine is the most famous and highly revered of all deities in Ratchaprsong and attracts millions of visitors each year.
 Brahma was originally erected in 1958 during the construction of the Erawan Hotel – now the Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok – because the property’s spirit house wasn’t able to appease spirits disrupted by the building work. Spiritual advisors suggested building a shrine dedicated to the four-headed image of Brahma, and since its investiture, Phra Phrom has become renowned for bringing good fortune.

In Hindu belief, The Lord Brahma, the creator, is one of the three holiest of gods. He has four faces, which symbolise all directions: north, south, east and west, which allow him to oversee and protect both the mortal and immortal worlds. He is known for his good disposition, his cool temper and ability to answer all the prayers of his faithful visitors.

The name Erawan comes from the god Indra’s 33-headed elephant, which is normally depicted with three heads. When Phra Phrom grants a wish worshippers thank the spirits by commissioning the classical dancers and musicians to perform.
In early hours of March 21, 2006, Phra Phrom was irreparably vandalised by a man believed to be mentally ill. A replacement Brahma statue was created in close observance of religious principles, guided by Buddhist monks and Brahmin priests. Many of gilded precious metals, the new statue contains pieces of the original and was primed with black lacquer before being covered with gold leaf. A replica of this statue is houses at the National Museum to serve as a model for future conservation and restoration of Phra Phrom.

Erawan Shrine is open from 6:00am to 11:00pm daily. As with all temples in Thailand, it is required for guests to pay particular attention to their clothing. To be on the safe side, avoid shorts, sleeveless tops and open-toe shoes. It is highly recommended to cover your shoulders and knees.

There are generally two ways to pay your respects at the shrine: making offering and commissioning the dancers. The cost of one dance performance is Baht 260 for two dancers; Baht360 for four, Baht 610 for six and Baht 710 for eight. Proceeds are donated to the Thao Maha Phrom Foundation.
Stalls surrounding the Erawan Shrine sell “offering sets” which usually include 12 incense sticks, four candles, four jasmine and marigold garlands and four pieces of gold leaf. The price is one set if between Baht 20-50, depending on how many items you buy. To present the offering, stand with your back to the main entrance of the shrine and walk around in a clockwise direction. Offer three incense sticks, one dandle, one garland and a piece of gold leaf to each face of Lord Brahma.
 
Getting there: The easiest way [taking into consideration abysmal traffic] from the Siam City Hotel is to take the BTS from Phayathai station three stops to station Chit Lom. From there take Exit 2 and walk 100 metres towards Ratchadamri intersection, the shrine is on your left-hand side.

Wednesday, January 12, 2011

Oddball Bangkok Museums

Several museums in and around Bangkok delve into Thailand’s wacky and idiosyncratic side. Definitely the most macabre if the Si Quey Forensics Museum, which revels in pickled body parts and cadavers of serial killers. A close second, the Corrections Museum recreates the rough justice meted out to criminals in the not so old days. The Museum of Counterfeit Goods displays Thailand’s best forgeries; as long as you call ahead, you’re welcome. Out on the outskirts, the weekends only Houser of Museums is two-storey sprawl of retro curiosities. Meanwhile, it’s safe sex all the way at the Condom Museum, which features numerous stimulating exhibits. Finally, if you’re interested in Thai cinema, walk among old film sets, 16mm cameras and startlingly real waxworks of local cinema heroes at the entertain Thai Film Museum.
CONDOM MUSEUM
Department of Medical Sciences
88/7 Tiwaanond Rd, Talad Kwan, Muang, Nonthaburi
02-589-5890
Mon-Fri, 8:30am-4:30pm
Free

CORRECTION MUSEUM
436 Bangkok Remand Prison
Mahachai Rd, Samranrat, Phra Nakhon
02-226-1704
Mon-Fri, 9:00am-4:00pm
Free

HOUSE OF MUSEUMS
170/17 Moo 17 Soi Klong 2
Salathammasop Rd, Taweewattana
089-666-2008
www.houseofmuseums.siam.edu
Sat-Sun, 10”00-5:00pm
Baht 30 entry fee

MUSEUM OF COUNTERFEIT GOODS
Supalai Grand Tower Building 26F
Rama III Rd
02-653-5555
www.tillekeandgibbins.com
By Appointment only

SU QUEY FORENCIS MUSEUM (Siriraj Medial Museum)
2 Prannok Rd, Bangkok Noi
02-419-7000, ext 6363
Mon-Sat, 9:00am-4:00pm
Baht 40 entry fee
www.si.mahidol.ac.th

THAI FILM MUSEUM
94 Moo 3 Bhuddhamonton Soi 5
Salaya, Nakorn Pathom
02-482-2013
www.nfat.org
Weekday: appointment only; weekend tours: 10:00am, noon, 3:00pm
Free

Thursday, January 6, 2011

Proper Pattaya


Pattaya, the Sodom and Gomorrah of Thailand, is the first stop for old white men in their quest for cheap escorts and beer. Or is it? Though the seediness that gives Pattaya its reputation still exists, these days there are more and more opportunities for some clean fun, from grape picking to a creepy house of wax.
The Great Outdoors
Only a few minutes from Central Pattaya, the Pattaya Floating Market (Talad Nam Si Pak, 451/304 Moo 12, Sukhumvi Rd., Pattaya, 038-706-340, www.pattayafloatingmarket.com) recently opened on an old, abandoned pond. Custom-built for tourists in search of a slice of the old Thailand, its four sections represent the kingdom’s four regions: North, Central, Northeast and South. Each region sells its own food, from Isaan somtam to sai-oua sausage from the North.
For a European day trip, head to the 10-year-old Silverlake Vineyard (same entrance as Khao Chee Chan Buddha Mountain, 31/62 Moo 7, Na Jomtian, Pattaya, Chonburi, 038-938-250, www.silverlakethai.com), 20 minutes from downtown Pattaya. Go Sideways with a stroll through the vineyard and a visit to the winery while enjoying the 1,500 rai of beautiful rolling hills surrounding a lake.
We recommend renting a bicycle, but the lazy can opt for an ATV. Admission is free.
Bang For Your Baht
The beachfront Central Festival Pattaya Beach (Pattaya Beach Rd., between Soi 9-10, 038-930-999, www.centralpattana.co.th) has the same brands as every other mall but the sea views are pretty unique. Every Friday sees the front square host Indie in Town, the same flea market concept as Bangkok's CentralWorld, where teenagers and young adults come to sell their quirky merchandise. It pales in comparison to the original, but, hey, you're on holiday, right?
For something a bit more offbeat, try your luck at Naklua Walking Street, which runs from the front of the Government Savings Bank to Saphan Yao (Pattaya-Naklua Rd.). Every weekend from 2pm-10pm, this century-old local market becomes a more civilized walking street, offering local merchandise and street food, from vintage toys to T-shirts and deep fried chicken to mango salad.
Real or Fake?
For kicks without the ping pong balls, there's always Ripley’s (2/F, Royal Garden Plaza, 218 Moo 10 Beach Rd., 038-710-294/8. Open daily 11am-11pm), though we've been told that it's not a "real" Ripley’s Believe it or Not. But that’s not the only fake in Pattaya. Louis Tussaud’s Waxworks (2/F, Royal Garden Plaza, 218 Moo 10 Beach Rd., 038-710-294/8. Open daily 11am-11pm.) is banking on the fame of the real deal Madame Tussaud, but is not affiliated with the London wax museum. One visit, and this will be painfully clear to you. Tata Young looks like she’s 200 years old.
Where to Sleep
Recognised as one of Pattaya’s most outstanding and established properties, the Siam Bayshore Resort & Spa is nestled in 20 acres of lush, tranquil greenery. Guests enjoy an exclusive location on the peaceful southern end of Pattaya’s world-famous Beach Road. Twelve low-rise pavilions comprise the resort, including seven bars and restaurants, two swimming pools (garden & beach), children’s playground, games room, six tennis courts, fitness centre, meeting rooms and Lotus Spa of Siam. Rates are from Bht 3,900 including taxes and breakfast.

The Siam Bayview Hotel epitomises the best in beachfront boutique living. Steps away from all the fun on lively Beach Road, the 250-room hotel fuses together a relaxing tropical seaside holiday and vibrant city living. A world of stylish and artistic comfort awaits you in thus sumptuous, modern and relaxing hotel. Best of all it’s located right next door to Asia’s largest beachfront shopping complex – CentralFestival. The Siam Bayview Hotel is an oasis of calm amid the hurly-burly of Pattaya. Rates are from Bht 3,200 without taxes and breakfast.

How to get there
Bus: Large buses leave from Ekamai Bus Terminal (BTS Ekamai) every hour and take about 1.5-2 hours. They run from roughly 5am-8pm and cost around Bht 150-200.
Vans: You can get a mini-van (16 seats) from Century Movie Plaza beside BTS Victory Monument (just up the road from Siam City Hotel). Only Bht 120 for a single trip (discounts for students) taking 1.5 hours.