Erawan Shrine

Fondly known as Phra Phrom the Erawan (Brahma) Shrine is the most famous and highly revered of all deities in Ratchaprsong and attracts millions of visitors each year.

 Brahma was originally erected in 1958 during the construction of the Erawan Hotel – now the Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok – because the property’s spirit house wasn’t able to appease spirits disrupted by the building work. Spiritual advisors suggested building a shrine dedicated to the four-headed image of Brahma, and since its investiture, Phra Phrom has become renowned for bringing good fortune.

In Hindu belief, The Lord Brahma, the creator, is one of the three holiest of gods. He has four faces, which symbolise all directions: north, south, east and west, which allow him to oversee and protect both the mortal and immortal worlds. He is known for his good disposition, his cool temper and ability to answer all the prayers of his faithful visitors.

The name Erawan comes from the god Indra’s 33-headed elephant, which is normally depicted with three heads. When Phra Phrom grants a wish worshippers thank the spirits by commissioning the classical dancers and musicians to perform.

In early hours of March 21, 2006, Phra Phrom was irreparably vandalised by a man believed to be mentally ill. A replacement Brahma statue was created in close observance of religious principles, guided by Buddhist monks and Brahmin priests. Many of gilded precious metals, the new statue contains pieces of the original and was primed with black lacquer before being covered with gold leaf. A replica of this statue is houses at the National Museum to serve as a model for future conservation and restoration of Phra Phrom.

Erawan Shrine is open from 6:00am to 11:00pm daily. As with all temples in Thailand, it is required for guests to pay particular attention to their clothing. To be on the safe side, avoid shorts, sleeveless tops and open-toe shoes. It is highly recommended to cover your shoulders and knees.

There are generally two ways to pay your respects at the shrine: making offering and commissioning the dancers. The cost of one dance performance is Baht 260 for two dancers; Baht360 for four, Baht 610 for six and Baht 710 for eight. Proceeds are donated to the Thao Maha Phrom Foundation.

Stalls surrounding the Erawan Shrine sell “offering sets” which usually include 12 incense sticks, four candles, four jasmine and marigold garlands and four pieces of gold leaf. The price is one set if between Baht 20-50, depending on how many items you buy. To present the offering, stand with your back to the main entrance of the shrine and walk around in a clockwise direction. Offer three incense sticks, one dandle, one garland and a piece of gold leaf to each face of Lord Brahma.

 

Getting there: The easiest way [taking into consideration abysmal traffic] from the Siam City Hotel is to take the BTS from Phayathai station three stops to station Chit Lom. From there take Exit 2 and walk 100 metres towards Ratchadamri intersection, the shrine is on your left-hand side.

Getting Around the City of Angels

Bangkok’s heaving traffic is legendary, presenting a constant challenge for residents and visitors alike. River and canal boats, along with the BTS skytrain and MRT subway systems, offer some reliable alternatives to getting stuck on the roads. Nonetheless, traffic remains horrendous, particularly mid-week. Below is a layman’s guide to inner-city transport choices.

RAIL

SKYTRAIN

The Bangkok Transit System, or BTS, is a two-line elevated train network covering the major commercial areas, from up north at Mo Chit all the way past Siam Square to On Nut and from down-town National Monument all the way over the river to Wongwian Yai. Trains run every few minutes from 6am to midnight, making the BTS a quick and reliable transport option, especially during heavy traffic jams. Depending on stops involved, fares range from Bht 15 to 40; special tourist passes allowing unlimited travel for one day (Bht 120) are also available. www.bts.so.th.

SUBWAY

Bangkok’s Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) is another fast and reliable way to get around town. The 18-station line stretches 20kms from Hualamphong (near the central railway station) up to Bang Sue in the north. Subways run from 6am to midnight daily, with trains arriving every 5-7 minutes. The underground connects with the BTS at MRT Silom/BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Sukhumvit/BTS Asok and MRT Chatuchak Park/BTS Mo Chi. Subway fares range from Bht 15 to 39 depending on distance. www.bangkokmetro.co.th.

RIVER

CANAL BOAT

Khlong Saen Saep canal boats operate from Banglamphu across the city to Ramkhamhaeng University. However, you have to be quick to board them as they don’t usually wait around long. Canal (khlong) boats tend to be frequent and cost around Bht 8 to 18 depending on distance. Tickets are bought onboard. Note that the piers are a tad hidden, which makes them somewhat difficult to find, pick up a handy route map from any pier to help.

EXPRESS RIVER BOAT

Bangkok’s vast network of inter-city waterways offer a quick and colourful alternative for visiting some of city’s top sights, such as the Grand Palace. Express boats ply the Chao Phraya River from Saphan Taksin Bridge up to Nonthaburi, stopping at some 30 main piers along the way. Fares range from Bht 9 to 32 depending on the distance, with tickets being purchased either onboard or at the pier, depending on how much time you have. Boats depart every 20 minutes or so between 5:030am and 6:00pm. Cross-river services operate throughout the day from each pier for just Bht 3. Like their klong brethren, these tugs don’t hang around, so make getting on and off a hasty affair.

ROAD

BUS

Bangkok has an extensive and inexpensive public bus service. Both open-air and air-conditioned vehicles area available, respectively for Bht 5 and Bht 7.50-23. As most destinations are noted only in Thai, it is advisable to get a bus route map, available at hotels, TAT offices and bookshops. Note that for many of the buses you board in the middle set of doors and exit from the front and rear. Tickets sellers will come to you once onboard.

MOTORCYCLE TAXI

In Bangkok’s heavy traffic, motorcycle taxis are the fastest, albeit most dangerous, form of road transport. Easily recognisable by their colourful oranges vests, motorbike taxi drivers gather in groups beside department stores, outside restaurants, at the end of long sois or nearby tourist spots. As with tuk-tuks, fares definitely have to be negotiated beforehand. On average you are looking at Bht 10-30 for a 3-10 minute ride. Whilst drivers wear helmets, they will not offer or have a spare one on hand for passengers, you ride at your own risk.

TAXI

Bangkok has thousands of metered, air-con taxies available 24 hours. Flag fall is Bht 35 (for the first 2km) and the fare climbs in Bht 2 increments from there. Be sure the driver switches the meter on as this is a popular swindle played on unsuspecting visiting guests. Whilst there is no tipping expected, rounding the fare up to the nearest Bht 5 or 10 is considered nice. Note that additional passengers are not charged, nor is baggage. For trips to and from the airport, passengers should pay the expressway toll fees. When boarding from the queue outside the terminal, an additional Bht 50 surcharge is added.

TUK-TUK

Those three-wheeled taxis (or samlor) are best known as tuk-tuks, so named for the steady whirr of their engines. A 10 minute ride should cost around Bht 40, but always bargain before boarding as drivers can be notoriously sneaky when it comes payment time. Also, be on guard if a tuk-tuk driver offers to deliver you anywhere for Bht 10, it’s part of a setup that will lead you to an overpriced souvenir or jewellery shop.

Plearn Wan

According to its website, Plearn Wan is ... “Center of joy and happiness ... stop the past in order to tell the various tales of Hua Hin in the past ... toward present”. In truth, it’s a giant wooden box stuffed full of people and shops. The design is said to reflect the not-so-distant past; looking and feeling decidedly retro. The slogan of almost everything at Plearn Wan is “as in the past”. Meaning you can eat, dress, shop and hang-out, as if it was fifty years ago.

You can browse an old skool pharmacy, record shop, general store, toy emporium, photography studio and more. Many souvenirs of the edible and collectable variety are available. There are also a couple of cafes where you can sit and relax with a coffee whilst reflecting on days gone by...

Highly popular with the local tourists due to the cutesy shops and numerous photo opportunities, it really is quite fun walking around the shops, snapping away and deciding which yummy desserts to try. There is also a mini theme park (with Ferris wheel) and even a hotel for those who want to brave the noise and stay the night.

I am told that in the day, the look and feel of Plearn Wan is quite different from the night and that it is excruciatingly packed. My Thai friends and I certainly had a pleasant time roaming the "streets" of Plearn Wan, experiencing a little bit of "old" Thailand and stuffing our bellies along the way. If you come to Hua Hin this slice of the past is well worth a visit for an hour.

 Getting there: it’s located on the main highway running into Hua Hin, about 5km before you hit the city proper. The drive from Bangkok is about 2-2.5 hours depending on traffic.

Times: open daily 11am – 12am.

Price: free entry, snacks around Bht 20-100