Getting Around the City of Angels

Bangkok’s heaving traffic is legendary, presenting a constant challenge for residents and visitors alike. River and canal boats, along with the BTS skytrain and MRT subway systems, offer some reliable alternatives to getting stuck on the roads. Nonetheless, traffic remains horrendous, particularly mid-week. Below is a layman’s guide to inner-city transport choices.

RAIL

SKYTRAIN

The Bangkok Transit System, or BTS, is a two-line elevated train network covering the major commercial areas, from up north at Mo Chit all the way past Siam Square to On Nut and from down-town National Monument all the way over the river to Wongwian Yai. Trains run every few minutes from 6am to midnight, making the BTS a quick and reliable transport option, especially during heavy traffic jams. Depending on stops involved, fares range from Bht 15 to 40; special tourist passes allowing unlimited travel for one day (Bht 120) are also available. www.bts.so.th.

SUBWAY

Bangkok’s Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) is another fast and reliable way to get around town. The 18-station line stretches 20kms from Hualamphong (near the central railway station) up to Bang Sue in the north. Subways run from 6am to midnight daily, with trains arriving every 5-7 minutes. The underground connects with the BTS at MRT Silom/BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Sukhumvit/BTS Asok and MRT Chatuchak Park/BTS Mo Chi. Subway fares range from Bht 15 to 39 depending on distance. www.bangkokmetro.co.th.

RIVER

CANAL BOAT

Khlong Saen Saep canal boats operate from Banglamphu across the city to Ramkhamhaeng University. However, you have to be quick to board them as they don’t usually wait around long. Canal (khlong) boats tend to be frequent and cost around Bht 8 to 18 depending on distance. Tickets are bought onboard. Note that the piers are a tad hidden, which makes them somewhat difficult to find, pick up a handy route map from any pier to help.

EXPRESS RIVER BOAT

Bangkok’s vast network of inter-city waterways offer a quick and colourful alternative for visiting some of city’s top sights, such as the Grand Palace. Express boats ply the Chao Phraya River from Saphan Taksin Bridge up to Nonthaburi, stopping at some 30 main piers along the way. Fares range from Bht 9 to 32 depending on the distance, with tickets being purchased either onboard or at the pier, depending on how much time you have. Boats depart every 20 minutes or so between 5:030am and 6:00pm. Cross-river services operate throughout the day from each pier for just Bht 3. Like their klong brethren, these tugs don’t hang around, so make getting on and off a hasty affair.

ROAD

BUS

Bangkok has an extensive and inexpensive public bus service. Both open-air and air-conditioned vehicles area available, respectively for Bht 5 and Bht 7.50-23. As most destinations are noted only in Thai, it is advisable to get a bus route map, available at hotels, TAT offices and bookshops. Note that for many of the buses you board in the middle set of doors and exit from the front and rear. Tickets sellers will come to you once onboard.

MOTORCYCLE TAXI

In Bangkok’s heavy traffic, motorcycle taxis are the fastest, albeit most dangerous, form of road transport. Easily recognisable by their colourful oranges vests, motorbike taxi drivers gather in groups beside department stores, outside restaurants, at the end of long sois or nearby tourist spots. As with tuk-tuks, fares definitely have to be negotiated beforehand. On average you are looking at Bht 10-30 for a 3-10 minute ride. Whilst drivers wear helmets, they will not offer or have a spare one on hand for passengers, you ride at your own risk.

TAXI

Bangkok has thousands of metered, air-con taxies available 24 hours. Flag fall is Bht 35 (for the first 2km) and the fare climbs in Bht 2 increments from there. Be sure the driver switches the meter on as this is a popular swindle played on unsuspecting visiting guests. Whilst there is no tipping expected, rounding the fare up to the nearest Bht 5 or 10 is considered nice. Note that additional passengers are not charged, nor is baggage. For trips to and from the airport, passengers should pay the expressway toll fees. When boarding from the queue outside the terminal, an additional Bht 50 surcharge is added.

TUK-TUK

Those three-wheeled taxis (or samlor) are best known as tuk-tuks, so named for the steady whirr of their engines. A 10 minute ride should cost around Bht 40, but always bargain before boarding as drivers can be notoriously sneaky when it comes payment time. Also, be on guard if a tuk-tuk driver offers to deliver you anywhere for Bht 10, it’s part of a setup that will lead you to an overpriced souvenir or jewellery shop.

Dean & Deluca

The undeniable new gastronomic kid on the block in Bangkok is Dean & Deluca, the hipster eatery that’s brining SoHO chic to the sois. Japan and Taiwan have long enjoyed this New York staple, and now it’s the City of Angels’ turn. Opened just a few months ago, the down-town eatery is already causing a stir and bringing back die-hard fans time and time again. From its sleek black, white and chrome design, concrete floors, minimalist furniture to mega-sized front door and attractive food displays, the cafe is likeable from the word go.

Although we – Chef Viroj, F&B Manger Prasert and EVP Marisa – all work in a hotel with very finest restaurants, we were keen to check out the competition and to pick up fabulous new taste and presentation tips to pass on to our own patrons. We popped by for a nosh around 11:30pm on a Thursday; earnestly trying to avoid the lunch-time rush that we had been warned about (apparently you don’t want to stop by in the afternoon, when stocks are critically low or simply ‘off the menu’). For now, the cafe and gourmet food shop is set in the showroom at the MahaNakhon construction site. The actual building will be complete in 2014. The ‘shop’ portion is quite small, but sells a nice array of kitchen items, pasta, spices, nuts, lollies, teas, sauces, breads and so forth. So, for now, Dean & Deluca is more a place to grab a bite, a coffee or pick up some pastries not do your  gourmet grocery shop for the week.

Now onto the important part, the eatin’! I can safely say that the portions were very reasonable, almost too big in truth. And, while the prices are high, they are not outrageous, expect to pay Bht 100 (half) to 200 (full) for a sandwich; Bht 70-125 for a coffee (S, M, L); Bht 100-140 for a shake, Bht 150 for 100g salad, Bht 70-150 for a cake slice and Bht 200 for a loaf of fresh bread. [FYI: whilst there is no service charge, expect to pay VAT]. To order your need to queue up, tell your order to the waitress, get a receipt, pay at the register, and then either pick-up or have your food delivered (I’m still a little fuzzy on this part). You can either sit at tables or couches inside or outdoors in the shrubbery. In keep with its low-key cafeteria vibe, you also have to collect your own cutlery, water glasses, napkins, etc.

Chef and I decided to share, opting for a Goat Cheese and Avocado Sandwich, Mediterranean Grilled Vegetable and Mozzarella Sandwich and Waldorf Salad. From the bread used in the sandwiches to the grapes in the Waldorf, Dean & Deluca kept its promise of only using the freshest ingredients. These tasty morsels were washed down with one of the most unique, tasty and delicious drinks I’ve ever had: Mango & Sticky Rice Shake. Sadly, the cakes did not live up to our expectations. The Tiramisu was passable, but nothing to write home about. The cheesecake on the other hand was an abomination, the crust was fairly nonexistent and quite squishy, the cake layer was minuscule and nowhere near dense or tasty enough and the canned blueberry topping was too sweet and abundant. However, as a saving grace we all agreed that the almost croissant was superb; to me it tasted like a cross between a croissant and an Anzac biscuit.

Final verdict: a good place to visit for a coffee and sandwich, and maybe to pick up a loaf for the weekend. Although the service is polite, it's hasty and the poor staff are hard-pressed to keep up with orders (and God's know how you get your table cleared!). If you are in the market for a good quality quick meal that won’t break the bank, this is a top pick for sure.

Getting there: From the Siam City Hotel getting there is easy. Either take a taxi [MahaNakhon Project, 92 Narathiwasrachanakarin Road, Silom] or hope on the Skytrain. If you take the BTS, head towards Siam Square where you need to change to the Silom Line and then continue for another few stops, getting off at Chong Nonsi. The cafe can be found on your right-hand side.