Cabbages & Condoms

So last night I went along to the infamous (in a good way) restaurant Cabbages & Condoms, located in the heart of Expatland, Soi 12 (off Sukhumvit). I decided to go there as I had a hungry hoard of five Beijingers to feed and I wanted to take them somewhere memorable for their one and only night in Bangkok. And before you say it, yes, I could have taken them to Soi Coyboy or Patpong, but I did not mean THAT kind of memorable!

At Cabbages and Condoms (C&C) all diners get a condom with coffee, instead of an after-dinner mint because this is the only restaurant in the world dedicated to birth control. That’s right, you did read correctly: birth control. It’s a strange mix, I know! Luckily, so as not to put more prudish people off, they also serve delicious and innovative Thai food in an amazing setting. I for one was very excited to try this culinary and educational experience as I’ve heard nothing but good things...

As the place is run on a charitable basis I wasn't expecting it to be particularly five-star. Although the tables and chairs are of the outdoor, patio-variety, this does not register, for immediately upon entering one is blown away by the ambiance. Set back from the road in a beautiful little garden compound with overhanging trees and oodles of charm, it's easy to forget that you're in the centre of a bustling city as it's such an oasis of calm. You can choose either to sit downstairs (as we did) or on the terrace (also a good option because at night the trees are strewn with fairy lights and the whole effect is enchanting). The premises also have private rooms that can cater for groups of 10-80 people. And for those not wanting a meal, you can simple relax with a pint and the paper in the Captain Condom bar.

Prices are fairly good, mains generally cost around Bht 90-120 and a very generous. We tried a swag of “classics” like crab cakes, spring rolls, green curry, spicy papaya salad, phad thai and mango with sticky rice; all of which were divine and didn’t disappoint (well except perhaps for me as I like a bit of spice, but sadly that was a no-go with my northern friends). We also one of the more “exotic” dishes on the menu, the spicy condom salad, an exotic and tasty mix of Shanghai noodles, chilli and herbs. The service is also impeccable and highly friendly. Staff are ready, willing and able to advice as the menu is very comprehensive and like us you might find yourself simply flummoxed by all the choice!

In the adjoining gift shop, silver bracelets, vests, bags and various other and other handicrafts made by Thai villagers are sold. Alongside which are piles of T-shirts, mugs, keychains, towels, coasters and anything you can image, all emblazoned with the message, "Cabbages & Condoms: our food is guaranteed not to cause pregnancy". Not to mention flowers, clothing, picture frames and other oddities made completely of condoms. Proceeds from the sale of these items and the restaurant’s meals are given to the Population and Community Development Association, a non-profit organization founded in 1974 by Thailand’s leading philanthropist, Mechai Viravaidya, the former Thai Minister of Health.

Mr Viravaidya’s non-profit association backs birth control, environmental conservation, rural development and AIDS awareness. To wit, he wants to make condoms as common –and as accepted – as cabbages. This is their down-to-earth way of promoting a better understanding and acceptance of family planning, which in a city with such a thriving sex trade can only be a good thing. And it must be working, for Thailand’s birth rate has dropped below 1 per cent a year! But the fun doesn’t stop with food, PDA has also dipped its toe into the world of hotels, they now also own/run the beach-side Birds & Bees Resort in Pattaya and the C&C Resort in the mountains of Sap Tai. So now there really is not escaping: safe sex is for the city, the countryside, the sea and the sky!

Getting there: The easiest way [taking into consideration abysmal traffic] from the Siam City Hotel is to take the BTS from Phayathai station six stops (towards Mo Chit) to station Asok and from there you went to leave the station on your right-hand side (exit 2) and head back up Sukhumvit in the direction you came from. After about 800m small Soi 12 will appear on your left. Walk down another 500m and the restaurant in on your right. There are also four other outlets scattered around Thailand.

 

Beer, Glorious Beer!

Like Whitney Houston and cosmopolitans, the Bangkok beer garden is back, and bigger and better than ever. Although the cool breezes of winter may be infuriatingly sporadic at best, this is one City of Angels’ phenomena that’s reassuringly reliable. Well, at least for a couple months.

My pick of the bunch: the mob at CentralWorld in the heart of hipster down-town. These glorious beer gardens are the annual beer mecca for Bangkok’s hip brew connoisseurs. The big five brands – Singha, Chang, Federbrau, Tiger and Heineken – are all represented.

This year’s high point is Heineken’s Green Space, sitting smugly on the 18th floor (roof) of Zen department store (accessible via 7F elevator). The others are not far away, down below with prime real estate on the busy commercial shopping street; each with ample seating and a large, raised entertainment stage that’s put to good use.

Green Space by Greyhound, offers both ice cold Heineken beer and delicious, fusion food. There’s also live music that includes soft-jazz bands and the occasional “big” name. This is the place the glitterati come to see and be seen.

For something a little more “casual” head down to the square in front of Zen and opposite Big C and Gaysorn. Here you will find a parade of top choices, frequented by a young, aspiring middle class of Thai who want somewhere sanuk to hang out and have F-U-N.

We went for the Tiger venue as it was packed and we like the crowed atmosphere [nobody likes to drink alone].On offer: Tiger pitchers holding 1.5 litres for 170 baht or a 3-litre gravity beer pump giving you beer on tap for just 380 baht. And that’s quite a good deal serving a table of eight thirsty drinkers. Snacks run the gauntlet of popcorn and prawn crackers to papaya salad, meat kebabs, fried rice, steamed fish and whole chicken; all reasonably priced from 20- 200 baht.

The bands on stage are all Thai, preferring to feature Thai pop and rock with just a smattering of Western classics. Don’t let this put you off, the music is surprisingly first-rate and very enjoyable. You will find the spontaneous sing-a-long to Romeo & Juliet by Pru amusing to hear and/or participate in. Although I wasn’t familiar with a single song, I still found myself head-banging and toe-tapping along with the best of ‘em. And after three pitchers was even getting the urge for a little table-top dancin’ and gyrating a la Coyote Ugly [all perfectly acceptable btw]!

Warning: although the spaces are huge, the fights for sofas and front-row seats are truly epic. Seats fill-up as early as 5 pm [especially on Fri night], so try to be there early or have a friend go reserve a spot in advance. Or, do like us and “accidently” bypass the long queue by sneaking in through the back entrance; easily done by feigning ignorance and acting like a simple, non-Thai-speaking pharang. Note – this course of action may result in feelings of guilt and embarrassment and an average table way, way in the back. But, you will be drinking a good hour before those who chose the more honest and straightforward front-door approach.

Either way, sit back, relax and enjoy one of Bangkok’s best “winter” pastimes…

In addition, for those wanting to hit a slightly less crazed beer garden, try the delightful Chang rooftop one at La Villa Shopping Complex located directly beside BTS Ari.

Getting there: From the Siam City Hotel take the BTS from Phayathai station two stops (towards Ou Nut) to station Siam, from there follow the signs along the skywalk to CentralWorld then head in and out to the square on the east side. For those more active, you can easily walk there in a flat 15 minutes [ask our doormen for directions].