Retro Retail in BKK

Market-saturated Bangkok is a vintage lover’s Mecca. Start out at the biggest and brightest in town, Chatuchak Weekend Market (Mo Chit Skytrain stations or Chatuchuk MRT station; weekends only, 10am-6pm) for items like vintage denim, re-worked clothing, second-hand books and decorative retro home wares and decorations.

 Other markets worth a trip include: Ratchada Night Bazaar (corner of Rachada and Lad Phrao Rd; Saturday only, 5pm-midnight) for vintage clothing, vinyl and antique toys; Talaat Wang Lang (Wang Lang, near Siraraj Pier; open daily) for clothing and accessories and Woeng Nakhon Kasem, or Thieves Market (Charoen Krung Rd; open daily) for Chinese and Thai antiques. 

 Plenty of standalone stores also specialise in vintage gear. Again & Again (Room B1a, Market Place, Soi 4, Sukhumvit Soi 55, Thonglor) is a divine boutique selling vintage pieces the designer has sourced from around the world. Other vintage fixtures in the city include It’s Happened to Be a Closet (266/3 Siam Square, Soi 3, Rama 1 Rd, itshappenedtobeacloser.wordpress.com), where fringed cocktail dresses, brightly coloured heels and cute crocket bed covers will all vie for your undivided attention.

 For a retro furniture and household-goods fix, go to Tuba (34 Soi 21, Sukhumvit Soi 63, Ekkamai, design-athome.com), which sells ‘60s sofas, ‘70s carpets and ‘80s curtains by day and cocktails, by way of morphing into a bar, by night. Its neighbour, Y50 (24 Soi 21, Sukhumvit Soi 63, Ekkamai), also doubles as a bar; test out funky chairs and Art Deco lamps over a few drinks while rubbing elbows with Bangkok’s artsy elite. 

 If you’d rather nourish your mind, Dasa Books (714/4 Sukhumvit Rd, dasabookcafe.com) has a great selection of second-hand tomes in various languages and states of repair. And last, but not least, head to Le Cafe Siam (4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chua Ploeng Rd, lecafesiam.com) for food to quell your ravenous shopping-hungry stomach, this restaurant, set in a grand old colonial building, has many antiques and artworks for sale besides its fabulous food.

Ayutthaya

This past weekend a visiting friend and I hopped a local mini-van to visit the famed city of Ayutthaya, a place I’ve being wanting to visit ever since I moved to Thailand.  As ever, first a little background info to start us off. Ayutthaya, full name Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya, is an ancient capital and modern city in the Central Plains of Thailand, 85 km north of Bangkok. Founded around 1350, Ayutthaya became the second capital of Siam after Sukhothai. Throughout the centuries, the ideal location between China, India and the Malay Archipelago made Ayutthaya the trading capital of Asia. By 1700 Ayutthaya had become the largest city in the world with a total of 1 million inhabitants. All this came to ahead when the Burmese invaded Ayutthaya in 1767 and almost completely burnt the city to the ground.

Today, only a few remains provide a glimpse of the impressive city it must have once been. In fact, Ayutthaya is actually an island at the confluence of three rivers: the Chao Phraya river, the Lopburi river and the Pa Sak river. Most of the remains are on the island itself, where you can find many temples (wat) and palaces. These alone have stood the test of time as they were the only buildings made of stone way back when. The great cultural value of Ayutthaya's ruins was officially recognised in 1991, when the historical city became a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Consequently, its proximity to Bangkok has made it a popular day-trip destination for international travellers. Besides building, you can also visit old settlements – Japanese, Dutch, Portuguese – and museums like the Ayutthaya Historical Centre (culture) and Chao Sam Phraya National Museum (treasures). We did not visit any of these so I offer no insight.

The places we did go our as follows: Wat Phra Si Sanphet; the largest temple in Ayutthaya, known for its row of chedis (Thai-style stupas); Viharn Phra Mongkol Bopit, an impressive building that houses Thailand’s largest (approx. 5m wide and 12m high) bronze cast Buddha image; Wat Phra Mahathat, a large temple that was quite thoroughly ransacked by the Burmese. This is also where you can spot the famous tree that has grown around a Buddha head; Wat Ratchaburana, this temple stands out for having a large prang recently restored to its original condition; Wat Thammikarat, a working wat, that contains the ruins of a large chedi and a huge viharn (sermon hall) which has a large tree growing picturesquely out of the side of one wall; Wat Lokayasuthatsm, where can be seen an impressive reclining Buddha and Wat Chai Watthanaram, a very large temple that the locals says is same-same Angkor Wat (even though it’s not thing alike in my humble opinion) and has a great view from the top and lovely position on the river.

All up, this is a very enjoyable place to spend a day (or half in our case). Even a night spend in the idyllic little town would not be bad. In fact, given Thailand’s insufferable heat, starting early – sites are open daily from 6:30am to 6:00pm – would be advisable. Entry to sites is strictly controlled, although we did see the possibility for hopping over the back fence if you’re so inclined, you can buy a park ticket for Baht 220 or pay as you go, usually Bht 50 a pop.

As to getting around, you have several options. The “official” tuk-tuk drivers will show you a card and map that states gov’t fees are Bht 200/hour to visit the ruins. However, these prices are apparently not set in stone and it’s possible to haggle if you so desire; we got a three-hour package of sight-seeing (7 sites) for Bht 500. And for those feeling more adventurous or energetic, hiring a motorbike or bicycle is a good way to go. Alternatively many Bangkok companies offer a day (or as many as three) boat trip, ranging in price from Bht 1,000-3,000 depending on the boat, group size, inclusions, etc.

All up Ayutthaya makes for a very nice day-trip from Bangkok. However, I give one caution. If you have been to the temples of Siem Reap in Cambodia or Bagan in Burma, or are planning to go, then I would not bother, these ones will pale severely in comparison and you feeling flat in comparison. Then again, if you’re in the mood for a pleasant day away from the hustle and bustle of Bangkok then go for it.

Getting there: The quickest and easiest way to get there from the Siam City Hotel is to take a mini-van (Bht 60) from Victory Monument. The journey is only one hour and will drop you right in the centre of town beside a waiting gaggle of tuk-tuk drivers. Similarly, visitors can take a big bus from Bangkok’s north (Mot Chit) or east (Ekkamai) bus stations, costing about Bht 12 and taking 1.5 hrs. Otherwise, hop a scenic train from Hualamphong station, this will set you back Bht 20 for third-class seat and take 2 hrs.

Khao Sam Roi Yot Tree Planting

Khao Sam Roi Yot is a marine national park in Sam Roi Yot district, Prachuap Khiri Khan Province, Thailand. It covers 98.08 km², of which 20.88 km² are marine areas. The park was established in 1966, and was the first coastal national park of Thailand.

The name Khao Sam Roi Yot means “mountains with 300 peaks”; describing the landscape of the park quite well. The limestone hills rise directly at the shore of the Gulf of Thailand, with the highest elevation Khao Krachom 605m above sea level. Between the hills are freshwater marshes.

 However several of these marshes have been converted into shrimp farms, with only 36 km² of the total 69 km² still part of the national park. In fact, 18 km² of these marshes have been declared a Ramsar site. The Ramsar Convention (The Convention on Wetlands of International Importance, especially as Waterfowl Habitat) is an international treaty for the conservation and sustainable utilisation of wetlands.

The reason for are visit, to plant mangroves in a re-developed Ramsar site. On Sunday, July 11 about 1,000 volunteers from various businesses in and around Bangkok, including Siam Hotels & Resorts, came together to plant 40,000 new mangrove trees in the marsh. A fun day was had by all with sustainable ecological development the big winner!