Heavenly Aspirations

Religion permeates Thailand like a constantly burning joss tick. Historic empires built great  monuments and replicas of heaven amongst the celestially governed rice fields. The glittering Buddhist temples are the modern-day repositories of divine rulers, while more humble household shrines honour the mid-level managers of the spirit world.

1) Bangkok

Bangkok is the seat of the government, the monarch and of the Buddhist religion, claiming the country’s most exalted Buddhas image at Wat Phra Kaew and several royally associated temples of architectural beauty and significance.

2) Ayuthaya

The fabled fabled kingdom, Ayuthaya was a golden capital ruling Thailand’s central plains and beyond. Today only the brick and stucco ruins remain, punctuated by headless Buddhas still meditating through the trials of history and the weight of gravity.

3) Sukhothai

One of the original Thai kingdoms, Sukhothai’s ancient ruins survived with fewer battle scars than Ayuthaya and inhabit a quiet, car-free historic park, creating an idyllic setting for contemplating the past.

4) Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai is deeply rooted in spiritual traditions. It was founded beside a mythical mountain now bearing a holy relic and the old city is decorated with antique temples more akin to those found in Myanmar than the central plains of Thailand.

5) Lopburi

The imposing monuments of the Khmer empire reside amidst the provincial business of Lopburi, one of Thailand’s oldest cities. The most intact ruin is best known for its resident troop of macaques, who eclipse the temple’s architectural merits.

6) Phimai

Nearly 100 years older than Angkor Wat in Cambodia, Prasat Phimai is a stunning example of the Angkor kingdom’s obsession with monument building and is one of Thailand’s finest surviving temples from this ear.

7) Phanom Rung

Facing east towards the Angkor capital, this hilltop sanctuary commands an authoritative view of what was once the kingdom’s western frontier. The temple’s Hindu reliefs and elaborate naga-punctuated avenue are hallmarks of Angkor’s artistic apex.

8) Nong Khai

Breaking the ‘spiritual spaces’ mould, Nong Khai’s Sala Kaew Ku Sculpture Park is a three-dimensional journey through Hindu-Buddhist mythology built by a Laotian immigrant whole life story has taken on mythic elements.

EVENTS & FESTIVALS THAILAND – DECEMBER

Thailand International Balloon Festival

1 December, Ayutthaya

The festival showcases the wonderful thrill of balloon flying and the country’s unique and beautiful hinterland.

King’s Cup Regatta

1 December, Phuket

An exhilarating international boating regatta will sees international teams battle it out to win the royal trophy of H.M. The King.

Elephant Fair

1 December, Lampang

Procession of the elephant satok, local cultural performances, exhibitions, sales of local handicrafts and more will be on hand at this delightful annual fair.

Pha Mor E-daeng Marathon

1 December, Si Sa Ket

A marathon along the way up to “Khao Phra Wiharn” between Phumicharon Village and Pha Mor E-daeng. Come to run, walk, stroll or watch.

King Rama IX Botanical Festival

1-12 December, Bangkok

Exhibition about Suan Luang Botanical Garden, show of winning arts and crafts like flower garlands, sale of plants and gardening tools, region’s cultural performances and fireworks.

Chiang Mai Bike Week

3-4 December, Chiang Mai

Bikers come out to play in the mountains this weekend. Charitable activities in Chiang Mai province and surrounding areas combine to make for great fun.

Isan Grand Kite Tradition

4-5 December, Buriram

See kite competitions of various selected categories, a kite procession and sales of local products.

H.M. the King’s Birthday Celebrations

5 December, nationwide

His Majesty the King will celebrate his 83^rd birthday today. An alms-giving ceremony in the morning is followed by a huge festival of music and culture.

Koh Samet Festival

6-12 December, Samet Island

Become amazed with the night colours of neighbouring Rayong as you enjoy various entertaining events and tasty food.

World Heritage Fair

10-19 December, Ayutthaya

Celebrate this glorious former capital city with a sound and light show, exhibitions, cultural performances, presentations and shopping.

Constitution Day

10 December, nationwide

Today’s celebrations are held annually to commemorate the advent of the regime of Constitutional Monarchy in Thailand.

Vintage Vehicle Procession

14-16 December, Hua Hin

Viewing a beautiful procession of vintage cars as they make their way to Hua
Hin via the Railway Station, Klai Kangwon Royal Palace and Clock Tower.

Sing Buri Fish Festival

25-31 December, Singburi

Fish sculpture contest, fresh fish exhibition, food from fish contest, special dish from great chefs and a variety of industry products on offer.

Ayutthaya

This past weekend a visiting friend and I hopped a local mini-van to visit the famed city of Ayutthaya, a place I’ve being wanting to visit ever since I moved to Thailand.  As ever, first a little background info to start us off. Ayutthaya, full name Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya, is an ancient capital and modern city in the Central Plains of Thailand, 85 km north of Bangkok. Founded around 1350, Ayutthaya became the second capital of Siam after Sukhothai. Throughout the centuries, the ideal location between China, India and the Malay Archipelago made Ayutthaya the trading capital of Asia. By 1700 Ayutthaya had become the largest city in the world with a total of 1 million inhabitants. All this came to ahead when the Burmese invaded Ayutthaya in 1767 and almost completely burnt the city to the ground.

Today, only a few remains provide a glimpse of the impressive city it must have once been. In fact, Ayutthaya is actually an island at the confluence of three rivers: the Chao Phraya river, the Lopburi river and the Pa Sak river. Most of the remains are on the island itself, where you can find many temples (wat) and palaces. These alone have stood the test of time as they were the only buildings made of stone way back when. The great cultural value of Ayutthaya's ruins was officially recognised in 1991, when the historical city became a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Consequently, its proximity to Bangkok has made it a popular day-trip destination for international travellers. Besides building, you can also visit old settlements – Japanese, Dutch, Portuguese – and museums like the Ayutthaya Historical Centre (culture) and Chao Sam Phraya National Museum (treasures). We did not visit any of these so I offer no insight.

The places we did go our as follows: Wat Phra Si Sanphet; the largest temple in Ayutthaya, known for its row of chedis (Thai-style stupas); Viharn Phra Mongkol Bopit, an impressive building that houses Thailand’s largest (approx. 5m wide and 12m high) bronze cast Buddha image; Wat Phra Mahathat, a large temple that was quite thoroughly ransacked by the Burmese. This is also where you can spot the famous tree that has grown around a Buddha head; Wat Ratchaburana, this temple stands out for having a large prang recently restored to its original condition; Wat Thammikarat, a working wat, that contains the ruins of a large chedi and a huge viharn (sermon hall) which has a large tree growing picturesquely out of the side of one wall; Wat Lokayasuthatsm, where can be seen an impressive reclining Buddha and Wat Chai Watthanaram, a very large temple that the locals says is same-same Angkor Wat (even though it’s not thing alike in my humble opinion) and has a great view from the top and lovely position on the river.

All up, this is a very enjoyable place to spend a day (or half in our case). Even a night spend in the idyllic little town would not be bad. In fact, given Thailand’s insufferable heat, starting early – sites are open daily from 6:30am to 6:00pm – would be advisable. Entry to sites is strictly controlled, although we did see the possibility for hopping over the back fence if you’re so inclined, you can buy a park ticket for Baht 220 or pay as you go, usually Bht 50 a pop.

As to getting around, you have several options. The “official” tuk-tuk drivers will show you a card and map that states gov’t fees are Bht 200/hour to visit the ruins. However, these prices are apparently not set in stone and it’s possible to haggle if you so desire; we got a three-hour package of sight-seeing (7 sites) for Bht 500. And for those feeling more adventurous or energetic, hiring a motorbike or bicycle is a good way to go. Alternatively many Bangkok companies offer a day (or as many as three) boat trip, ranging in price from Bht 1,000-3,000 depending on the boat, group size, inclusions, etc.

All up Ayutthaya makes for a very nice day-trip from Bangkok. However, I give one caution. If you have been to the temples of Siem Reap in Cambodia or Bagan in Burma, or are planning to go, then I would not bother, these ones will pale severely in comparison and you feeling flat in comparison. Then again, if you’re in the mood for a pleasant day away from the hustle and bustle of Bangkok then go for it.

Getting there: The quickest and easiest way to get there from the Siam City Hotel is to take a mini-van (Bht 60) from Victory Monument. The journey is only one hour and will drop you right in the centre of town beside a waiting gaggle of tuk-tuk drivers. Similarly, visitors can take a big bus from Bangkok’s north (Mot Chit) or east (Ekkamai) bus stations, costing about Bht 12 and taking 1.5 hrs. Otherwise, hop a scenic train from Hualamphong station, this will set you back Bht 20 for third-class seat and take 2 hrs.